Raglan sleeve garment



Jan. 4, 19738. R. E. BLOOD 2,104,288

RAGLAN SLEEVE GARD/[ENT Filed Feb; 24, 1937 34,5 Gktozmus Patented Jan. 4, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT oFFlcE 2 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in wearing apparel, and particularly to garments such as shirts and coats of the raglan sleeve style.

Primarily, the object of. the invention is to simplify the fabrication of garments of this type of standard measurements and to minimize the cost of production of such garments by saving in material or total pattern surface.

More particularly, the invention contemplates the production of garments having raglan sleeves and body portions having either straight or shaped sides, gussets or inserts being used to give fullness to the sleeves and to the body of the garment when the latter has shaped sides. To minimize the quantity of material used in providing these gussets, the sleeves of the garment are cut from a blank of fabric, usually of. two plies, and the necessary gussets preferably formed by cutting the blank at the cuff-end of the sleeve to form a cui of reduced diameter, although additional gussets which are required for the shapedside garment may be out from a separate piece of goods. y

With these and other objects in view, the invention consists in certain details of construction and combinations and arrangements of parts, all as will hereinafter be more fully described and the novel features thereof particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

In the accompanying drawing- Figure 1 is a plan view, more or less diagrammatical, illustrating a so-called blank from which the body portionsof two garments are cut;

Fig. 2 is a like view of a blank from which the sleeves and gussets for two straight-side garments are produced;

Fig. 3 is a front elevation of a straight-side garment, including the sleeves and gussets;

Fig. 4 is a like view of a shaped-side garment;

Fig. 5 is a more or less diagrammatical view of a separate blank of material from which gussets may be formed; and

Fig. 6 is a plan view of a pair of gussets used for an insert in the shaped-side garment.

The body portions of the garment-shirts in the present illustration--are preferably cut from blanks such as illustrated in Fig. 1, and the sleeves from a blank such as illustrated in Fig. 2. This is true, whether the body of the nished garment is to have straight or shaped sides. In cutting out the bodies, the so-called blank is formed by folding a piece of material upon itself along the edge Ill, the length of the material corresponding to the over-all length of two garments. The material is then cut along lines I2, I3, converging inwardly from the two side edges I0, Il, so that by sewing the two plies of material together along the edge Il, two tubular body portions` will be produced, each having one straight end and one end'with two V-shaped recesses therein at what would otherwise constitute the shoulder portion of the garment. To impart better shape to the neck line, the goods may also be cut along lines I4. For garments with straight-sided bodies, the goods should be cut about three inches along lines I5 from each point X in the direction of the arrows and for shapedside garments this out should extend about ten inches, for accommodation orY attachment of inserts, as will presently be described.

In cutting out the sleeves, a similarly plied piece of goods (Fig. 2) of a length equal to two sleeves, is cut inwardly from its edges I6, I1 along converging lines I 8, I9, the points at which said lines intersect each other and the side edges of the blank being equidistantly spaced from the longitudinally medial point of the blank. At one end of the blank, the material is cut along lines 20, 2l, to form cuff portions of reduced diameter and the material at .the opposite end is cut along its longitudinal center, as indicated by line 22, and also along lines 2U, 2l, to form reduced cuil! portions on the sleeves. When cut as thus described, the piece of material, indicated at A of each ply, will form a sleeve when sewed along its free edges and each two portions B of the two plies will likewise form a sleeve, making four sleeves in all cut from the blank. As will be apparent, by cutting the material along lines 2li, 2i and 20, 2lab to form the reduced cuff portions of the sleeves, material for four substantially V-shaped pieces or gussets, indicated at 23, will be produced, and it is these gussets that are utilized in giving fullness to the sleeves in the finished garment, thus eliminating all waste oi material in the production of the garment. For instance, in the straight-sided garment illustrated in Fig. 3, the tapered ends oi' the sleeves are set into the recessed portions of the body and form the shoulder portion thereof, the edges of the sleeves formed by lines I8, I 9, being stitched to the edges formed by lines I2, I3, along which the body portion was cut from the original blank. A gusset 23 is then inserted in each arm-pit of the garment-with its apex disposed away from the arm-pit. In other words, the edge of the gusset opposite its apex is attached to the edges formed by the cuts` along lines I5 in the blank and the edges of the gusset defined by the lines 2li, ZI QI 20a, 2l, are attached to edges of the sleeve proper which, of course, have not been sewn together their entire length toward the arm-pit.

In fabricating the shaped-side garment illus trated in Fig. 4, the bodies and sleeves thereof are out from blanks of material just as they are for the straight-sided garment, but as previously mentioned. the bodies are slit along lines l5 (Fig. l) about ten inches. Also, in order to shape the side of the garment to more neatly fit the body of the wearer, two gussets are combined to form the insert under the arm-pit. For this reason, it is necessary to cut additional gussets from a sep arate piece of material, as shown in Fig. 5 because only two gussets are provided from the blank of Fig'. 2 for each pair of sleeves cut therefrom. These additional gussets are preferably cutout from a double-ply blank, the Yblank being out along the lines 30, and 3l, 3|, and transversely on the lines 40, 4I, thus producing eight gussets. It will be observed that cutting the blank of Fig. 5 along the ofset lines 40, 4l, produces a gusset having its edge opposite its apex recessed dished. Such a gusset is illustrated at 23a in Fig. S. On the other hand, the material of the blank of Fig. 5 is also out at its corners along the lines 50, thus forming each of four of the gussets from said blanls with a raised portion on its edge opposite its apex, as shown at Zlib i1*- Fig. 6. Thus, two gussets such as 23a, 231 be neatly iitted together along their edges opposite apices to produce the insert shown at the arrnpits of the garment illustrated in Fig. 4. As will be understood, the longitudinal edges of these inserts are secured to the ci the under unseamed portions of the sleeves the garment and to the edges of the mater l formed by the slits i5 in the garment body. With the two gussets forming the insert neatly mated or fitted together and the insert secured in the armpit with the apices of the two gnsseis disposed away from the arm-pit or downward pori-ion, so to speak, of the sleeve and body, a welt-i2 cned or shaped side is produced in the finished gar ment. At the same time, there is praetlcely no loss of material in cutting out the several units of which each garment is constructed, and all or" said units are formed with a minimum number of cuts and in a very and efficient manner.

It should be added that Where the gnssets cut from the blan; of Fig. 2 are to be used in a shaped-side garment, the gussetdorming portions of the material can be out along the lines (shown dotted) 40e, S, to produce two pairs of mating gussets 23e, 23e.

In both types oi garments, the inserts, whether formed of one or two gnssets, give the fullness in the lit oi the garment. as is desirable in the raglan sleeve style of garment and, as previously pointed` out, all the constituent parts of the garment are formed or out out without waste of material.

What I claim l. The method oi' fabricating a raglan-sleeved garment such as a shirt which comprises prepar ing a two-ply blank of material, cutting said blank along converging Eines extending inwardly from the side edges o." said blank, said lines extending from a point ai one side of the longitudinally mediai point oi' the blank and intersecting at the longitudinal center of the blank at the other side of said medial point to form the shoulder portions. of the garment sleeves, cutting substantially V-:haped pieces from each end of said blank to forni reduced cuff portions for said sleeves, attaching the shoulder portions of the sleeves in a garment body, and securing said V- shaped pieces .in the arm-pits ofthe garment with the :ipices of said pieces disposed away from the arnrpt.

Tire method of fabricating a raglan-sleeved garment such as a shirt which comprises cutting substantially V-siiaped pieces of material from the cuff end of material blanks constituting sleeves of We garment 1.o form sleeves having ire-- duced of tions or' tin. garment sleeves in the garment body, ew eenring said f/shaped pieces in the armhe garment with the apices of said pieces Wpose-d away .from 'Je arm-pits.

RICHARD E. BLOOD.

portions, attaching the shoulder por- ..1 

